I made a Friday Pattern Company Adrienne blouse in this bold sparkle knit that makes me feel like a 70's superstar. I enjoyed the simple pattern a lot, and felt confident enough to hack it. On Instagram, lots of people wear this top off the shoulder and they look super cute with this style!
It's possible to wear the pattern off-shoulder as is, but I wanted to push myself to alter it- try my hand at a little pattern hacking.
I also added a different sleeve detail that I will show you how to do as well. I call it a tiered sleeve (who knows if that is the actual name of this style). The elastic goes in the middle of the sleeve to make a poof at the top and a flare at the bottom.
I'll show you the steps and what I wish I had done differently if you want to try it yourself!
Altering the Pattern
Step 1:
Taking the front/back piece of the pattern, and starting at the lowest curve of the neckline, draw a line from that point to the armhole.
Step 2:
Next, the neckband piece also needs to be changed since the neckline has been altered. I didn't change the neckband on my version and it's not quite long enough. I had to really stretch it to get it to fit. Add about 0.5" to the length for good measure.
Step 3:
The top of the sleeves also need to be shorted to accommodate the loss of height in the neckline. I didn't do this step until I needed to put the elastic in the sleeves and I just matched and guessed. I believe I lowered the top of the sleeve by about 5/8" but you may have a different amount.
I found this number by lining up the closed sleeve seam (no elastic in it yet) with the underarm seam and doing a little seam matching to figure out how much I would need to take off but still have enough to encase the elastic. So, know that this needs to happen, but you don't have to do it now.
Now, with the altered pattern, it's time to assemble!
Assembling the Top
Step 1:
Follow the pattern instructions, to assemble the bodice: place the front and back bodice pieces right sides together and sew the side seams.
Step 2:
Attach the neckband to the front and back.
Step 3:
Sew up the sleeve seams.
Step 4:
Here's where you can alter the length the sleeve head. Before you create the casing for the elastic, line up the seams and match it up. Check how much fabric is extra making sure to remember that you are going to need enough to fold over and encase your elastic.
Step 5:
Put the top elastic in the sleeve and attach it to the bodice.
Now, here you have a choice. You can leave the top as it as is. You can keep the original sleeves in the pattern, or you can continue with the tutorial and change the sleeves.
This is where it gets a bit funky and if you're not comfortable with a sewing machine there is no pressure to continue.
Made your choice?
Let's continue.
Altering the Sleeves
Step 1:
Decide where you want the elastic to be placed. I chose to go about halfway down the sleeve.
Step 2:
Make a pintuck at the point you have decided. The pintuck should be on the inside of the sleeve.
When you make a pintuck, decide how wide you need the casing to be to fit your elastic. Then, mark that decided amount above and below the place you have decided to put the elastic. Put those two markings right sides together and sew them together all across the inside of the sleeve.
Step 3:
Take the pin tuck and close it by taking the open end and sewing it down. Make sure to leave an opening to thread elastic through. When the elastic is in the encasing close it up and you have a sleeve!
Step 4:
Finish up the shirt in any other ways you need such as hemming, and you are complete!
The Finished Garment
I tried it for the off shoulder and love it for the sleeves. It was a spur of the moment decision to alter the pattern in this way, but I"m really happy with how it turned out!
I think it makes a really sweet top with some 1830's sleeve vibes.
My apologies on the photo-lacking tutorial. I didn't think to take photos as I was assembling the shirt since I had no idea how it was going to turn out at all. It was a leap of faith, but one that I seemed to have landed on my feet with.
Let me know if you found this tutorial helpful, if you are going to try it at all, and most importantly- what is making you smile today!
Keep on stitching!
Emma
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